Monday, June 3, 2019

South Carolina, Charleston - Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - Ft. Sumter National Monument


Our last day in Savannah we were watching “Diners, Drive Ins and Dives” and The Early Bird Diner in Charleston was featured.  As it turned out, it was just down the road from our RV park so we decided to stop for breakfast before heading in town to Ft. Sumter.  I didn’t notice that I was reflected in the door when I took the picture of the outside.





The inside is typical diner décor with some local artists featured.




Our breakfast was very good, but later on Greg’s didn’t settle too well with him.  Usually when we eat out we split whatever we order, but breakfast is an exception since I don’t eat eggs and Greg always wants eggs.  This morning I had their pancake special which was corn flake pancakes with a double berry drizzle.  An order came with 3 pancakes, I asked for only two, should have asked for just one, I couldn’t eat all of it.




This is our destination for the day.  Ft. Sumter can be reached only by boat so we will meet our tour boat here.  There is a museum to go through while we wait.  Although this is a national monument our senior pass wasn’t good here.  The fee is for the boat ride, not the entrance to the monument.




In early 1865 Charleston families buried valuables and heirlooms fearing they would be taken by the Union troops if Charleston fell.  This particular set belonging to Mrs. William Jefford is referred to as “cabbage patch” porcelain because Mrs. Jefford buried it in the family garden and planted cabbages over it.




Construction of Ft. Sumter began in 1829 as part of the series of coastal forts built by the United States after the War of 1812.  It was designed for 135 guns and a garrison of 650 men.


In December 1860 Ft. Sumter stood 55 feet above the water at low tide and the walls ranged from 9-25 feet high.  However, it was only 90% complete, standing empty with only 15 cannons mounted and ready.


This is what the fort would have looked like at the beginning of the Civil War.




If you want to see a rehabilitated fort that does a good job of depicting life in the fort, Fort Pulaski is where you should visit.  If you only want to stand where history was made, Ft. Sumter will be of interest.  I’ll try to make the history summary short.


December 20, 1860 South Carolina was the 1st state to vote to secede.  Four forts defended the port of Charleston at this time, Ft. Moultrie, Ft. Johnson, Castle Pinkney and Ft. Sumter. Very few Union soldiers were in any of the forts.

December 26, 1860 Maj. Robert Anderson who was in charge of 85 Union soldiers at Ft. Moultrie decided that Ft. Moultrie was indefensible and moved his troops secretly to the unfinished Ft. Sumter.

December 27, 1860 South Carolina volunteers took over the other 3 forts and began adding additional batteries around the harbor.

January, 1861 a merchant vessel carrying 200 men and supplies for Ft. Sumter was turned back by the South Carolina volunteers.

April 4, 1861 after one month in office, President Lincoln sent a relief expedition of merchant ships protected by ships of war to resupply the Union troops at Ft. Sumter. 

April 10, 1861 the Confederate secretary of war got word of the upcoming resupply and telegraphed Brig. Gen. Pierce Beauregard who commanded the Confederate forces in Charleston to demand Ft. Sumter evacuate and if refused to reduce it in whatever manner he chose.

April 11, 1861 Beauregard demanded surrender, Anderson refused.

April 12, 1861 at 3:20 a.m. the Confederates informed Anderson that their batteries would open fire in one hour.

April 12, 1861 at 4:30 a.m. a signal shot was fired over Ft. Sumter.  Within moments Edmund Ruffin of Virginia touched off a gun in the battery at Cummins Point headed to Ft. Sumter.  By daybreak all forts and batteries were firing on the fort.

April 13, 1861 Anderson agreed to a truce and the fort was occupied by Confederate troops.  The Civil War had begun.


In 1863, two years after the signal shot that started the Civil War, Ft. Sumter’s determined Confederate soldiers kept Federal land and naval forces at bay for 587 days.  In the summer of 1863 Federal forces gained control of Ft. Johnson and began the bombardment of Charleston, which continued until February 17, 1865, the longest siege in U.S. Military history.


Well, that wasn’t as short as I anticipated, but history is why we are here.


Waiting on the deck for our tour boat to come in.





Charleston Harbor where the Cooper and Ashley Rivers meet is a busy place today.

This group of barges and a tugboat pulled up looking like they were going to dredge something – note the huge scoop on the left end of the barge.



All we ever saw them bring up was water.



They did dump some of the water in a barge that said “New York, New York” on it.  It kind of looked like they were washing off part of the barge.  Greg said the barge was probably hauling garbage from New York (we don’t know that).



This bird was watching the action too.



This big guy coming in is from Panama.



A tugboat is turning it and pushing it in to dock so it can be loaded with waiting cars and boats.




A few people were parasailing.  The carrier in the background is the one we toured yesterday.



Our tour boat has arrived.



As we board, I check out where the life jackets are loaded, under the tarp above us – safety first especially when you can’t swim!



Next time through this area a tour on this tall ship might be in order.



Getting ready to dock at the fort.



An outside view of the fort.



Walk around the outside.



In 1899 the fort was modernized by the addition of a steel reinforced concrete battery in the middle of the parade grounds.  The fort was used through World War II and finally decommissioned in 1947.  These inside views taken from atop the battery show the nearly total destruction of the fort.




Back at the museum.


South Carolina, Charleston - Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum


We are headed today to tour the USS Yorktown, “The Fighting Lady”.  This vessel was the 10th of a class of 24 “Essex” class carriers which made up the backbone of the U.S. Navy’s combat strength during WWII.  The Essex was the first of this class.

The USS Yorktown served in WWII and Vietnam and in 1968 recovered the Apollo 8 astronauts, the first men to orbit the moon.  That is the extent of my knowledge of aircraft carriers.  Even with my limited knowledge I did find the tour very interesting.



On our way we passed over the Cooper River Bridge, another beautiful bridge.  This one is 2.5 miles long.



There is a walking bridge out to the carrier.  There are golf carts running people out if you don’t feel like walking.



The Yorktown was commissioned on April 15, 1943.



We went up and down a LOT of these steep stairs today.  I told Greg I wanted to go down like you see the sailors do on tv using just their hands, sliding down.  He encouraged me to go ahead but I was afraid he would hurt himself laughing at me so I refrained.



One thing I did learn today was that sailors who reside on these carriers have to be short and thin.  We followed a tall guy around for a while and I was just sure he was going to whack his head on something.  Even at 5’2” I managed to brush my head against something going down one set of stairs.



The “ready room” where pilots are briefed.  I’ve seen enough old war shows to recognize this.



A few of the many planes on the landing deck.  This is a self-guided tour.  They give you a pamphlet that tells you what you are looking at on each deck but you can take as much time as you would like.





Looking back down the deck from where the planes leave the carrier for takeoff.



The USS Laffey, a destroyer, is also on site and part of the tour.  We didn’t go through it, we were pretty tired after the Yorktown tour.



The USS Clagmagore is also on site and part of the tour.  You couldn’t get me on this thing unless you knocked me out!  Submarines are not for people with claustrophobia.



The Admiral’s sea cabin is pretty luxurious compared to the other accommodations we saw later.  This has a bunk, desk, toilet, shower and wash room.



The sailors could visually manage aircraft on the flight deck from here.



More planes are a level below in the hangar deck, where planes were stored.



An aircraft carrier such as this one is a “floating town”.  They have to have all needs covered for the 3500 or so people on board for extended periods of time.


The cleaning and pressing room.



There were several of these rooms for dentists.



Butchering room




The galley which provided breakfast, lunch, dinner and midrats (midnight rations) to those 3500 people every day.



This recipe was posted on the wall.  Thought I better get a copy, never can tell when you will need a recipe for 10,000 chocolate chip cookies.



This is one of two crew mess areas.



The bunks and lockers used by the majority of the crew.


We stopped for lunch at the Fighting Lady Café, which was on board the carrier.  I would recommend you eat someplace else either before or after the tour.